Whenever it refers to spectacular and unique limited edition models, few brands do better than Omega. In particular, the Seamaster line has seen a range of spectacular special models in recent years, particularly those based on its long association with James Bond films. The limited edition Seamaster 300M 007 James Bond On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, launched in September 2019, was especially prolific in this distinctive portion of the Omega lineup. Its distinctive rifled-barrel dial and subtle nodes of Bond tradition have already spawned a series of yellow gold spinoffs, as well as a seven-piece solid platinum limited edition in the 2019 Nieman Marcus holiday catalog, which also included the custom Aston Martin DBS Superleggera by Bond actor Daniel Craig. Needless to say, when Omega sets out to build a 007 inspired Seamaster, the results are always scandalous. For the next move of the brand, the latest Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Version in Platinum Gold adds a couple of appropriately secret new references to the world’s favorite spy while secretly adding innovative new case content.
There’s not anything that seems outwardly fresh about the 42mm case of the new James Bond Numbered Version at first inspection, but there’s some cutting-edge material science at play below the surface. Most precious metals, particularly gold, are notoriously soft materials to be used. As a consequence, gold appears to scratch or tooth even more quickly than stainless steel, for example. Creating a hard-wearing, robust sports watch out of material has always been a bit of a paradox, with gold iterations by divers like the Seamaster series serving more as conspicuous displays of riches than as engineering feats. For a bona fide globe-trotting action hero like James Bond, however, soft and flashy metal is simply not up to the task. But if the same soft gold is applied as an alloy to even more precious platinum, something unexpected occurs. Platinum-gold alloys have the potential to be phenomenally durable and scratch-resistant, with certain newly produced combinations of alloys showing scratch resistance and toughness similar to diamonds than other metals, 100 times stronger than high strength steel. Although Omega has recently used this alloy in a handful of limited edition versions, the company itself has been surprisingly quiet about the use of metal. However to our knowledge, Omega is the first brand to use this kind of platinum-gold alloy in watchmaking, and a representative of the brand has indicated that all future Omega platinum models will use this proprietary alloy. As far as the look itself is concerned, it is not too different from pure platinum, with a calm, bright tone that distinguishes itself from the mild warmth of white gold. Topping the familiar Seamaster 300M shape is a glossy bezel inserted in black ceramic accented by a raised diving scale in pure platinum. The engraved plate in the same platinum-gold is numbered individually for each watch. The sapphire caseback is also handled with a special engraving, laser etched with the ornate Bond family coat of arms and inlaid with filament-thin platinum. Of course, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Version in Platinum Gold, like its more popular stablemates, is rated at 300 meters of water resistance.
The Omega Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Version in Platinum Gold essentially follows the formula set out last year’s On Her Majesty’s Secret Service limited edition, with a more lavish execution. Rather than polished ceramic, the dial is shiny black enamel, and the dramatic 007 spiral barrel pattern is embossed with 18K white gold. This has been a controversial element in past releases, with some fans arguing that it seems too direct or obvious, but the attention to detail in this pattern is commendable in itself. For example, the circular opening at the end of this spiraling design is exactly 9mm wide, the same size as many of James Bond’s firearms over the years. The handset and applied indices are both made of white gold, with a distinctive 12 o’clock index that adds chevron and roundels to the traditional style of the Bond family. The white enamel minutes track covers another tiny node from the franchise, as the 7 o’clock marker is replaced by a miniature 007 logo. The last unique Bond-inspired node on the dial is only available in low light, as the 10 o’clock index features a number 50 concealed in its lumen to mark the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”
Omega drives the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Version in Platinum Gold with an in-house 8807 coaxial automatic movement. Beyond the signature co-axial escapement, the 8807 also provides more than 15,000 gauss of magnetic resistance and is extensively decorated with Omega’s distinctive spiral strip pattern and a signed rotor in its patented Sedna gold alloy. Certified to METAS master chronometer accuracy requirements, the 8807 has a reliable 55-hour power reserve at a 25,200 bph beat rate. The brand adds a final layer of luxury to this model with its strap offerings. The black crocodile leather strap not only conforms beautifully to the case, but the contrast stitching is executed in a fine platinum thread. For a less showy alternative, Omega also includes a black rubber band.
In the true secret agent theme, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Version in Platinum Gold is surprisingly covered. While the concept itself bears the unmistakable hallmarks of the 007 series, it also serves as a quiet introduction to a groundbreaking new material. Although there is no concrete production cap for this model, it is easy to imagine that production would be very limited on the basis of price alone.
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